Engine Break-In Procedure (for a freshly built engine)


  • If this is a new engine build that you are bringing for a tune, to save yourself money, and to make sure you get the most out of the time allotted for tuning, I recommend you to follow these procedures if you plan to break in your own engine.  Or we can break in the engine on the dyno for an additional charge separate from dyno tuning. You will need to make sure we can fit you into our schedule for this before tuning.
  • Fill the engine with regular non synthetic oil (5w30). Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over for 15-30 seconds or more to allow oil pressure to build and lubricate the motor. We use a oil pressure gauge installed onto the oil feed line to the turbo off the oil filter housing to verify we are getting oil pressure while cranking.  ECU fuse or Ignition fuse should be pulled during this time or the clips on the injectors unplugged so no fuel shoots into the engine.

  • Get the engine started on Stock Injectors if possible, Stock Map Sensor and Stock ECU (or stock Chip in your chipped ECU). No matter what the engine, 9 out of 10 times this will start the car, run it fine and you won't have to worry about over fueling the engine, which would wash down the cylinder wall. Something you do not want to do on a fresh engine.
  • Start the car and let it run and warm up fully, checking for Fuel, Oil, and Coolant leaks the entire time. Also a good time to make sure your Radiator fan/fan's come on as supposed to and notice that it is working correctly with cycles. If you notice leaks, fix them before letting the engine warm up fully.

  • Once the car has been heat cycled once….drain the first oil. You will see how metallic it is. Also it is a good idea to cut open the oil filter and check for any debris  (in case of improper assembly). Fill the engine again with Brad Penn SAE 30 or Joe Gibbs BR30 Break-In Oil (our recommendations) and start and run the car again…heat cycle it a couple of times allowing it to warm and cool fully each time continually checking for leaks or other problems.

  • Take the car for a drive, put a couple of miles on it (2-10), make sure everything else with the car is functioning properly. Clutch, transmission, wheels, joints, suspension…etc. Don’t get on the car hard, just drive it easy making sure everything is working nicely. This is a process designed to work out any kinks inexpensively and easily without doing any damage to the engine.

  • Install any alternate injectors, map sensor and chip that you will be running to get to the dyno. If you want to be completely safe, change these items once you get to the dyno.

  • Then we put the car on the dyno, tune it, run it hard….rings need PRESSURE to be able to seat so running the engine up to 75% will help those rings seat better.  We like to run almost full boost right away afer the car has been dialed in to the proper Air to fuel and ignition timing.  Using the vacuum of the engine to also help seat the rings and ensure uniform piston ring wear. Brad Penn SAE 30 & Joe Gibbs BR30 oil is designed for this purpose of seating and bearing life and should be changed after your dyno session.
  • Any question send us an email:  sales@dynotechtuning.com